Hyundais to Mongolia

[Mikedav]

Hi guys, think I have found the perfect forum here for info and advice...I'm Mike of The Unprofessionals (http://www.the-unprofessionals.co.uk). We are entering two Hyundai Accents into the Mongol Rally 2009 - London to Ulan Bataar, Mongolia. The rules:

1) Cars must be under 1.2 (we just pay a £100 extra fine for charity for 1.3s)
2) Cars must be under ten years old (donated to charity when they arrive)
3) Cars must be utterly unsuited to the task

:)

We've bought both now; a 2000 model 1.3 in blue and a 2002 in silver. Both have, weirdly, an identical 44k miles on the clock and seem to run pretty well. One has the engine light on but for no obvious reason having done 200 miles with no issues. Looking forward to gaining some valuable info on these cars here...especially in terms of preperation!

Bearing in mind this isn't a race so we won't be driving on the limit, and we are just looking for basic prep, we need tips on what MUST be sorted if we are to make it...so far I have been told suspension and cooling are the weak points of the Accent? So we plan to replace the springs and shocks, take spares and add the larger radiator from the previous generation car.

Can you guys suggest anything else that needs doing? Stronger suspension would be nice (if we need it) but it's a charity rally so unless some fabulous corporate sponsor (which we do need) decides to sponsor us we can't afford to splash out on too much kit...so budget solutions would be good!

Heres a vid of what it's all about:mMongol Rally

Thanks in advance!

[ernysp76]

We don't have the smaller engine models in Australia; ours are all 1.5 or 1.6 so not sure if the suspension is different. First may I say you’re totally mad secondly I hope it goes well. Neither the overheating nor the suspension has been a problem on the X3 models which we use for rallying, so not sure where the problems you have identified came from.

Two weeks ago I flogged a car for hours in temperatures in the mid 30's with no problems. We also had one guy use standard suspension for an extended period in rallies, his only complaint, was the shocks would go off after a while. I used KYB shocks front and back for two seasons and they worked fine, and should do OK for your once off trip. You might like to raise the car a bit to get a bit more ground clearance by getting some springs that will lift it a bit. Also some under body protection would be helpful something solid that extends back a long way.

Take some spare rear suspension arms as these can easily be hit although if you bolt some rubber (conveyer belt type) from the body extending over the suspension arms and held on the arms with some hose clamps it might deflect the worst of the rocks. Other than that a roof hatch is great investment keep the windows closed and the hatch open will keep a lot of dust out.

Hope this helps all the mods I have mentioned are cheap given that is what you’re looking for have fun. Might like to invest in some rally tyres as well seems from the video standard tyres cop a pounding particularly in the sidewalls.

[Mikedav]

Brilliant advice many thanks!

Sump and petrol tank guards are on our list, as is protecting the lines running under the car...I like the protection idea for the suspension arms too.

Overheating was pointed out by a UK owners forum; the 2000-2004 (?) model has a radiator half the size of the older model, so we have been advised to swap in one from that...and looking at the engine bay the mounts are there so its a straight swap. A cheap precautionary measure anyway...

Glad to see the car is fairly rugged...

[toasthall]

Haha how odd, I was just reading about the Mogol Rally yesterday! Sounds like an awesome event and I would love to do it some year (possibly on a bike though). Wish I could help, good luck!

[ernysp76]

Just remembered the crates that Yamaha Motorcycles come in are made of a very heavy guage steel that is a perfect fit to protect the brake and petrol pipes under the car, also they usually end up in the dumpsters out the back of the motorbike shops so will be free.

[HMCA]

I seam to remember that the Auto Accents had a bigger radiator then the Manuals. by about 6inches or so too.

[Mikedav]

Thanks guys some good info here....do you think we would get away with stock suspension if we take spares?

[wagonist]

I expect you'd have less issues with the rear suspension wearing out on the Accent than the Excel due to the beam axle ayout instead of fully independant, therefore less moving parts.

I'd be taking spares of parts that are likely to cause problems & be difficult to repair.
Suspension, brakes, gearbox, driveshafts, CVs, etc.
Definitely get longer springs. The "roads" (very loose description) in Mongolia are very rough, very slow going.

You could do what most of here do & buy a crashed wreck from an auction to strip it for spares. Cheaper than buying the spares individually.
Plus you could donate the spares then at the end as well so the people getting the cars can keep them running.
Though, if you're in the UK, these things are probably very cheap anyway.

Will the cars be staying in Mongolia?
A very poor country (hence the reason I think the 1.2L is specced), but these people are usually very resourceful in keeping cars & other expensive items running.

Good luck & keep us posted on your progress.

[HMCA]

Steve

Accents had independant rear suspension right up until the current MC Accent. There is a model listed on the part cattledog that list "with sporty package" these models have different struts which maybe better then the std equip. In Aus these were sold a a "GS" and had factory side skirts.

[Mikedav]

I'd be taking spares of parts that are likely to cause problems & be difficult to repair. Suspension, brakes, gearbox, driveshafts, CVs, etc.
Definitely get longer springs. The "roads" (very loose description) in Mongolia are very rough, very slow going.

Thanks, I am just having trouble figuring out where to get longer springs. Lowering springs are all over Ebay of course but no idea where to find longer ones?

You could do what most of here do & buy a crashed wreck from an auction to strip it for spares. Cheaper than buying the spares individually.

Good idea, though one of our cars (the 2000) was £400, not sure if we would get a wreck for much less! The 'good' one was £800. I'm gonna start scouting for a scrapper to strip...

Will the cars be staying in Mongolia? A very poor country (hence the reason I think the 1.2L is specced), but these people are usually very resourceful in keeping cars & other expensive items running.

Yeah, they are auctioned off and the money goes to charity. Mongolia has very high import taxes so the cars are worth more when the get there (most cars in Mongolia are $3000 USD upwards, so cheaper western cars which have been made exempt from the taxes as its for charity are in demand).

The 1.2 rule is the organisers to make sure you aren't driving anything too powerful and it's fun / a challenge...the Mongolian government implemented the under ten years old rule due to the volume of knackered cars Rallyer are starting to bring in every year!

Good luck & keep us posted on your progress.[/QUOTE]

[toasthall]

Haha I was under the impression that actually preparing for the rally was against the spirit of the thing? In fact i get the feeling that the idea is to take the most unsuitible car(or bike) and not acctually take spares, other than the gaffer tape and zip ties mentioned in their FAQ.

Acctually the website is a great read: http://mongolrally.theadventurists.com/index.php

And if any of you aussies are interested in participating in the futrue, i would definatly be interseted!

[wagonist]

Steve

Accents had independant rear suspension right up until the current MC Accent. There is a model listed on the part cattledog that list "with sporty package" these models have different struts which maybe better then the std equip. In Aus these were sold a a "GS" and had factory side skirts.
oops, my bad. Must've been thinking of something else?

[Mikedav]

Alright guys, little update....4 months to go. Here is one of the cars in her current state....hmm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Mikedav/Mongol%20Rally/IMG00019-20090201-1625.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Mikedav/Mongol%20Rally/IMG00017-20090201-1625.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Mikedav/Mongol%20Rally/57.jpg

The other will be done to match, but it's a daily driver for my team mate so for some reason he is reluctant to do it yet. I've done about 500 miles in this one so far and she runs sweet as a nut. Pretty quick actually, she'll do a 100MPH...Got a few queries though!

1) We've got an engine management light on permanently, but it doesn't seem to be an issue. Worth reading off the fault codes somehow? Is there home software / laptop cable available on this?

2) the brake warning light came on for a bit a while back and then went out again - comes and goes - but she stops fine and the handbrake works....worth checking or probably just another light?

3) Sump Guards. My original plan was to use the plastic guard as a template for some steel ones, so a mate removed it. It's been ages since she was on the ramp though so I cannot remember what it's like under there (and it's currently parked 120 miles away). Does anyone have a picture of the underside or any advice here? I'm trying to recall if we can use the existing mounting points for a steel guard, or whether it bolted into other bits of plastic, in which case that's the worlds stupidest idea. Also on that one anyone familiar with the underside suggest where to mount some protection for the fuel tank?

5) We are scrapping suspension upgrades as I am told it's unnecessary (if it needs jacking up, the Kazaks will do it for £20 apparently). We are also taking limited (if any) spares as the law of sod dictates we won't have the bit that breaks anyway. Any tips on weak points? Head gasket an issue on the 1.3? It's done 44k miles.

6) Finally, I think we want to replace the radiators with the ones from the X3 model as suggested. Anything we should know? The existing radiator seems to sit next to a blanking plate, suggesting it should just plug straight in?

Cheers in advance guys

[wagonist]

1. Check your own fault codes:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t1141-data-trouble-codes.htm
The position of the plug on these forums will relate to the LHD model so you may have to search for it. Someone else on here may be able to tell you where the diagnostic plug for a PHD Accent is located.
So definitely worth doing, now that you can do it at home for free!:clap:
The last thing you want is a permanently on check light masking when something bad does happen.

2. Does the light only go on under heavier braking? Check the brake fluid in the reservoir. When it is starting to get low, the warning light will start to illuminate as the fluid is flowing back and forth with the brake pedal.

3. Almost none of the mounting points for the plastic guards will support a metal one. Just look for an Accent parked on the street somewhere & quickly(otherwise someone might think you're trying to steal it!) stick your head underneath is probably the easiest way. For our rally cars, the rear end of the sump guard is somehow (done in various ways by various people) bolted to the body where the front lower suspension arms fit up to. Because of the shape of the car, they are a flexing point (ie move inwards) under suspension movement & braking. Early X3 Excels were recalled by Hyundai to get this area strengthened. Look at where these parts of the body meet the firewall on a 94-97 model vs 98-00 to see where Hyundai added extra plating to try to fix this. The metal sump guard then helps brace this area. The front edge is usually bolted under the radiator support. Don't forget to install spacers (or have you brackets made longer) so that the guard has an air gap above it. Otherwise, if you hit something & the guard bends, it doesn't take out part of the car with it. Also make sure any holes in the sump guard used for mounting are a lot bigger than the bolts, then use large washers. If any bendage does occur, then you'll still be able to remove/refit without redrilling the holes. Just make sure the guard is wide & long enough to cover the sump, gearbox, front inner driveshaft CV joints.
For fuel tank protection, most people here now are just applying a couple layers of fibreglass to the bottom of the plastic fuel tank, maybe with a layer of kevlar if you feel like it (search the forum for this type of thing). Just don't do where the holding straps go otherwise the tank won't bolt back up again:splat:

4. what happened to 4? he's feeling lonely & left out:lmao:

5. After seeing some guys here running standard suspension in rallies (albeit for a limited time), probably not a bad idea (& the person who ends up with it in Mongolia will probably find it easier to get fixed too!!). I'd be taking spare struts/shocks (assembled with springs otherwise you may to need to compress the springs in the middle of nowhere) to swap out if you have a problem. I know you're not going to be pushing hard, but if you can get hold of 2 spare sets of fronts & one spare pair of rears, that should be heaps. Plus it'll gives spares at the end of the event for the lucky person to keep the car running, or sell for spare cash (more likely).
Can't comment on the reliability of the 1.3 as I think Aus may have only got that engine in the Getz (maybe). Getting 100MPH out of it isn't bad though.

6. Again, can't comment about the 1.3 vs 1.5. Aus Accent (1.5) radiators seem to cover the entire front opening.

[Mikedav]

Someone else on here may be able to tell you where the diagnostic plug for a PHD Accent is located.

Is that Pom Hand Drive?! ;) LOL.

Good call on the CEL though, will see if I can get someone to read of the codes for me. The point you made on the brake light also adds up, will check it during a service.

Almost none of the mounting points for the plastic guards will support a metal one.

Yup that's what I meant above, couldn't recall if the plastic guard bolts onto metal or not. If it doesn't there is no point using it's existing holes as a guide for mounts...though it's shape is handy. The bigger holes / washer idea is great.

Thanks for all the tips, very useful

[wagonist]

Is that Pom Hand Drive?! ;) LOL.

Good call on the CEL though, will see if I can get someone to read of the codes for me. The point you made on the brake light also adds up, will check it during a service.



Yup that's what I meant above, couldn't recall if the plastic guard bolts onto metal or not. If it doesn't there is no point using it's existing holes as a guide for mounts...though it's shape is handy. The bigger holes / washer idea is great.

Thanks for all the tips, very useful
oops, RHD. It is 3am here though & i should be in bed.
I like your humour though:clap:

To read the CEL, if you read the link, the only tool you need to do it yourself is a rebent paperclip. It'll flash the dash light in a series of codes.
I know I'm going to be printing out the info from that link myself as I only just found it. Google is your fiend.

[Mikedav]

Cheers. After reading in more detail I see what you mean. Found some similar info but always assumed I need proprietary diagnostics to read it - looks dead easy. Will give that a go, though I have found this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=230128733587&Category=30921); for a modest investment (if it works on the Accent) it might be very useful on our trip...

[Jimbo]

3) Sump Guards.


I had a sump guard made up for my Accent years ago, the car isn't near me at the moment, but I'll try and post some pics and details of what i did.. More soon!

[Mikedav]

I had a sump guard made up for my Accent years ago, the car isn't near me at the moment, but I'll try and post some pics and details of what i did.. More soon!

Would be much appreciated!

[Grumblebum]

Hi I note that all the attention so far has been on the body and suspension however imho the most important part to replace PRIOR to the event is your CAM/TIMING belt . should be done every 4 years --Should the belt fail your valves will have a close encounter of the worst kind with your pistons and destroy both the engine and the whole event for you.
While your getting the belt done its also good insurance to replace the water pump and tensioner as well as the normal drive belts. This is the best possible insurance to make sure you reach Mongolia
Cheers Peter

[Mikedav]

Hi I note that all the attention so far has been on the body and suspension however imho the most important part to replace PRIOR to the event is your CAM/TIMING belt

Cambelts are on my list, though a lot of people are suggesting the chances of one going at 42k are slim and on both cars in a 10k mile period extremely unlikely. Parts are cheap (£35) but it's not a DIY job I would attempt...might have a line on some freebie mechanical help tho

[Mikedav]

Can anyone tell me where the OBD port is on this 2000 RHD car?

The guide says under the steering column, dash shroud but I've been all over it and can't find anything like t anywhere. In other cars there is a panel you pull off and there it is...thought it would be similar? Can't find it

[Crazy Dave]

If it is still X3 then you open the fuse cover and it is at the top but facing down, near the skin of the dash panel so is very hard to see at first.

[Grumblebum]

Mike I hate to harp but maybe the reason your engine check light is on that as you have done 44k miles your timing belt is DUE-- This info is from one of my trade publications--I've seen countless engines buggered because owners wont pay to get the most important part of their engine serviced at the right time. As for belts not braking thats bullshit they brake when you look at them--I had one brake when I was changing it!!!! I'm sure there are plenty of professional mechanics who would be happy to change a belt especially if you give them one and explain what you're doing and for whom.
Cheers

[Mikedav]

Cheers for the info guys. Just had the fault codes checked / cleared, it was for 'Catalytic Converter Efficiency'. The brake fluid reservoir is a bit low so you were spot on Wagonist. Might have some help with cambelts coming up too which would be good

[Mikedav]

Interesting...a mate of mine has a 99 Accent (Excel) and just had his bonnet nicked. Weird but true. He's bought a 98 with a blow head gasket solely for the bonnet..and has told me I can have anything I want off the remains. I'm having the radiator (might be useful), I know the wheels are the wrong offset but is there anything else off of it that fit's ours?

Cheers in advance

[wagonist]

You may find the wheels are the wrong stud pattern too.
I think this model Accent is 4 x 100, where the earlier models are 4x 114.3

The larger radiator will definitely be useful though.

[Mikedav]

Yeah sorry by offset I meant PCD, shame as they would have been handy. Not sure if anything else can be transfered...

She's coming on...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Mikedav/Mongol%20Rally/8-1.jpg