View Full Version : Air Conditiong Removal
Kenoath
04-10-2009, 11:25 PM
As I was removing my air con today I had a look at what looked like to be the compressor that was belt driven. I have taken a photo of it and its location. Just need to know if this is just the air con or does it have something to do with the timing? both of the manuals I have weren't very clear
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg126/qldmountainbiker/048-1.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg126/qldmountainbiker/049-1.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg126/qldmountainbiker/050-1.jpg
Cheers,
Kenoath
342Four
05-10-2009, 02:39 AM
yep - thats ur AC compressor
also looks like that excel has been sitting around with no bonnet on it for a while or was getting moisture build up in there from inactivity :)
lots surface rust :)
Kenoath
05-10-2009, 07:42 AM
Awesome thanks so do I just leave the other big belt wheel where it is and remove the tension adjust jockey wheel?
A little rust never hurt anyone and for $400 I can't complain
Kenoath
05-10-2009, 07:50 AM
Whoops double post
Crazy Dave
05-10-2009, 10:00 AM
Looks like it had the bonnet open during the dust storm to me. You can leave the 2 pulleys there if you wish or change it to one if you wish. Its not going to make a difference. Next excel I build (if I ever build another) is going to have air conditioning left fitted for cooling down on the transports during a hot event. Events at the beginning and end of year have been run on days that have been over 40 degrees at times and if you can stay cool your performance is a lot better. Having said that, a lot of the old excels with air fitted that I have seen for sale, don't have the air working and the condensor is always a prime target to get damaged during rallies although it may save the radiator occasionally from a stick.
Kenoath
05-10-2009, 07:30 PM
The bonnet was closed in the dust storm. It is all the grease and grime on there from the previous owner. What would be the best way to clean the engine bay?
retrokev
05-10-2009, 07:46 PM
Answer Pressure cleaner. Also known as A Gerni or a Karcher.
I picked up a Air Conditioning condensor at the wreckers on Saturday for $55 and asked for and received a warranty if it leaked.
Had it regassed today for $145 includind a new dryer. :clap:
Kenoath
05-10-2009, 08:11 PM
Thanks to everyone that has answered my silly questions so far it has been super helpfull so here are some more :). I would assume that water blasting the engine bay would mess with the electrics? Or just leave the battery disconnected untill it has drip dried for peace of mind?
Now I'm looking at roof vents/scoops. What's the best way to do it I'm leaning more toward a wrx style scoop and interior vent system for hot rainy days. Any advice on what to get?. I have seen wrx ones for sale but am not sure if the curve of the bonnet would be the right curve to fit the excel or would some silicone fix that problem?
ernysp76
06-10-2009, 08:07 PM
Best way I've found to clean the engine is to stick a freezer bag over the alternator to stop degreaser washing out the internal bearings and get an old window cleaning bottle and fill it with degreeser, spray it over everything, then just hose off. No need to disconnect the battery.
As for roof scoops I got mine from a caravan parts place, cost about $45, they are the same as the ones sold through rally outlets for double that price. You just need one in the middle between the driver and co-driver to provide positive pressure in the cab.
PS remove the freezer bag when you've finished!!
Now I'm looking at roof vents/scoops. What's the best way to do it I'm leaning more toward a wrx style scoop and interior vent system for hot rainy days. Any advice on what to get?. I have seen wrx ones for sale but am not sure if the curve of the bonnet would be the right curve to fit the excel or would some silicone fix that problem?
Locally try LSM Products in Toowoomba 07 4639 1588
or in NSW try Ces Evans at Rallyglass Products 02 4576 7373
I have a price list from Nathaniel at LSM which has a black glass vent at $99+GST and a swanky carbon firbre one at$168+GST. The internal bit with the directional vents are where the $$$ are at 460+GST
Cheers Mick
anthony tanzer
07-10-2009, 02:19 PM
Next excel I build (if I ever build another) is going to have air conditioning left fitted for cooling down on the transports during a hot event.
Al often reminds me how cool Hannibal is with the A/C on, whilst I sweat away in my 40yo Escort!:slap: But he does like the look of my roof vent (Toyota Dyna).
Kenoath
07-10-2009, 02:34 PM
I should be able to source a internal vent system from a wreckers but thanks for the info about lsm I will give them a call once I have this dash sorted.
Is there any other way to get a dash that isn't cracked other the pay your local Hyundai dealer $800?
Dirkvhp
08-10-2009, 02:44 AM
G'day Kenoath,
I've just got the dash back into the van Alphabet (nearly finished now!). I probably went overboard but I wired the cracks together on our dash and then covered it.
Basically I drilled 3mm holes along each side the crack about 10mm apart, then used a soldering iron to melt a "trench" between the holes just deep enough for the wire to hide below the surface of the dash. I then laced the cracks together with wire. Once the wire is in I used a soldering iron to smooth the plastic over the wire as best as possible (It didn't need to be perfect).
Jas bought some black micro suede from spotlight which I then glued to the dash using contact cement. I would have chosen a more "stretchy" fabric (some people have used black felt) but it turned out pretty good, the fabric covers a multitude of sins and helps to hold the old dash together.
I did have to cut a couple of "darts" in the covering fabric on both sides of the instrument cluster as it didn't have enough stretch. I cut a couple of pieces of fabric to fill the gaps.
If you are keen you can save yourself the expense of a new dash or the time you'll spend looking for an uncracked one.
Regards
Dirkvhp
Kenoath
08-10-2009, 08:12 AM
Thanks for the info Dirk but my current dash is fubar it's in about 6 different pieces. I just want to get rid of it as Im sick of looking at it.
I have another question what sort of ignition killswitch are you guys running? Is a power cut off enough or do you have a fuel pump/ignition cut off aswell?
Latho
08-10-2009, 09:56 AM
Gravel rally cars don't require any additional cut off system. The standard ignition switch is fine.
Mark H
08-10-2009, 11:00 AM
Gravel rally cars don't require any additional cut off system. The standard ignition switch is fine.
But it is a very good idea to have such sytems in place.
Does the Excel fuel pump cut as soon as the engine stalls?
Latho
08-10-2009, 11:17 AM
Yep, runs of the oil pressure switch as far as I know, so if you roll the car, it will also cut out.
Kenoath
12-10-2009, 01:52 AM
Anyone got any tips for securing a battery inside a battery box? I tried using the mount from the engine bay but it wont fit in the box
rally_toy_excel
12-10-2009, 07:39 PM
do what one of my dads old customers did.... screw thru the floor/bulkhead into the battery.... battery never moved.... car didnt either
Kenoath
13-10-2009, 09:23 PM
Should I upgrade the radiator hoses or are the stock ones fine. I'm already going to replace the hose clamps with the more traditional screw up style. just wondering if it's worth while while I'm at it?
Bit of an update on my progress so far also. I have moved the battery behind the passengers seat last Sunday just yet to finish the mount for the killswitch. So this Sunday I will hopefully be flocking my brand new dash and hopefully I don't flock it up too much. Then new pads and rotors and oil change, brakes bled then regoed. Then the fun begins:clap:
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