Hi there, newby with q's [Archive] - Excel Rally Series Forum

wagonist

04-10-2007, 06:16 PM

G'day.

I'm Steve. Some of you may seen me briefly at the recent NSW round at Bago as I was Matt & Ben's service crew.

I came along because I wanted to find out more about this series.
I almost bought a rally car 12 years ago when I was living in Brisbane, but a job relocation to the wilds of Western NSW put pay to that.
I've been officiating for at least 15 years now & managed to spectate at a couple of WRCs rounds as well.

Got a few questions though:
Is it easier to start with a good(ish) twin cam model or to get an early one & swap the gear? I supposed this does depend on the right price though.
Roll cages? Want kind of money does a welded one cost?
Anyone got a link to the PRC regs? I've been trying to find it on the CAMS website, but without any luck.

Anyway, that's it for now.
May see you in Canberra.

Bevan-L

05-10-2007, 01:34 PM

Hi Steve, Im sure some of the seasoned guys will answer your q's shortly...

I would seriously like to join the series once my current commitments are complete, its sounds like serious fun

Cheers!
Bevan (ROTFL-ACT)

Whitey

05-10-2007, 01:50 PM

Hi Steve,
Is it easier to start with a good(ish) twin cam model or to get an early one & swap the gear? I supposed this does depend on the right price though.

If you can get a twin CAM at the right price, go for it. If not the single CAMs are definetely cheaper & the way to go. The conversion is pretty straight forward, engine, wiring harness, ECU and maybe a front member (depends on yr) I reckon you could start out in a single cam while you are getting up to speed driving it. It is better to be out there getting experience than sitting back waiting for a twin cam at the right price to come along IMO. Mick Gillett did it this way.

Roll cages? Want kind of money does a welded one cost? Bond do them for about $2500-$3000 maybe a bit more, depends on what additional bars you want to add.

Anyone got a link to the PRC regs? I've been trying to find it on the CAMS website, but without any luck

Yep here you go.http://www.camsmanual.com.au/road.asp

wagonist

02-11-2007, 09:57 PM

Well, I got the ball rolling by purchasing a slight front damaged twin cam at an auction.:clap:

It's got a few k's (184 000) but at least that way I won't care if I break it though either.

It'll give me a new project to sink my teeth into while the project road car gets stuff built for it.

New job with better money (but more hours:() will also help with the work:naughty:

haggers

02-11-2007, 11:02 PM

wagonist

29-11-2007, 09:06 PM

Is there any difference in the radiators between the twincam/single cams?

Mine's got a big bend in it (it was touching the exhaust) & want to know if I have to spec a twin cam for the replacement.

ae86trueno

29-11-2007, 09:51 PM

Nope no difference as far as im aware, we are still running a single cam one. the pipes are diferent though

wagonist

30-11-2007, 06:20 PM

Thanks Ben.

Bit of a stupid question, but how do you remove the glovebox?

Crazy Dave

01-12-2007, 08:32 AM

There are 2 clips inside the gloce box (one on each side) that pop out and this allows you to swing it right done. To get the clips out you can't have it fully open as the clips are then against the stops so you need to look at them get your hand in there and close it up a bit, they then twist out (it has been awhile since I did it but I think that is pretty close).

wagonist

01-12-2007, 07:18 PM

Cool, got it. Thanks

Next q:
Is that a diagnostic port above the rear fog switch?

HMCA

01-12-2007, 08:42 PM

Cool, got it. Thanks

Next q:
Is that a diagnostic port above the rear fog switch?

Yep sure is

wagonist

01-12-2007, 08:53 PM

Engine diagnostic, or something else?

The more I pull apart this car, the more I'm impressed with the design.:hail: The Koreans have designed it with maintenance in mind, rather than throw away like the Japanese. Which is kind of strange, as they only drive small distances each year due to the traffic & small size of the country(plus the only land boundary is closed:()

Crazy Dave

02-12-2007, 06:59 PM

I don't know if it does anything else but it does engine diagnostics

wagonist

02-12-2007, 10:45 PM

ok, next q...

I've got to replace the headlights on my car as they came smashed.
Is it permissible to use any non-genuine replacement parts(being cheaper)? Obviously as long as they are made for the X3 Excel.

Or is this going against the commitment of Hyundai to this series?

HMCA

03-12-2007, 07:01 AM

Genuine Head lamps for Excel Competitors is $48+GST each,

If you can find aftermarket ones cheaper then that I would be supprised. Our dealers supply most of the grey guys with these because Korea won't supply the RHD lamps to Korean traders.

Cheers Mick

wagonist

30-01-2008, 11:59 PM

Got a bit of an update.

After deciding that my original donor car was too badly damaged after the hailstorm in December, I've been trying to find antoher one.
Last week, I picked up a 97 single cam manual with the aim of swapping over the running gear.
After starting to strip it, I discovered that it wasn't just keyed paintwork that was wrong with it, & ended up using the original donor car as a spare part repository, plus now I've got spares at least.
Both cars have been stripped to within an inch of their lives & various bits have already started to disappear with the weekly garbage collection.

I've figured that while I've got the shell apart, I may as well get some decent welding strengthening work done around the strut towers while I'm waiting for the good bits to arrive like roll cage & suspension.

So little time, yet so much to do...:(

Curly

06-02-2008, 12:49 AM

Yep sure is

Diagnostic port? As in an OBD style port?

I've seen some interesting devices on ebay that supposedly tell you a bunch of stuff about what the ECU is doing - anybody got any experience with these?

Whitey

06-02-2008, 09:55 AM

Diagnostic port? As in an OBD style port?

I've seen some interesting devices on ebay that supposedly tell you a bunch of stuff about what the ECU is doing - anybody got any experience with these?

The plug is ODBC style but the output seems to be proprietary. I attached an ODBC II reader i purchased a few years ago in the USA but was unable to get it to any data out of it.

The reader worked fine on my WRX and Jeep.:(

matt mead

06-02-2008, 11:02 AM

Whitey can u play with the ecu or can u only read what its doing??? with the thing you have??

Whitey

06-02-2008, 11:05 AM

The device i have only reads, but doesn't work on the Excel ECU in any case.

wagonist

18-02-2008, 10:01 PM

It was great to meet a few or you guys on Sat.

After I got home, I had my "new shell" looked at.
The front left upper rail has been replaced by some homemade, very dodgy work. If it was in front of the strut tower, I wouldn't be stressed, but as the join is right in line with the middle of the strut, it's now going to be a donor car & I'll transfer the straight panels onto the hail damaged shell...:(:crazy:

Anyway, I saw a lot of variations on interior trim levels & am really confused about what can & can't be left in.
Seeing as I'm at the point of "binning" any completely unnecessary items from 2 cars, I don't want to throw away stuff that will be required.
So if people could kindly list a yes or no, it would be appreciated:

"A" pillar trim
sunvisors
rear trim (I know the rear passenger compartment trims are supposed to be in, but are difficult with the roll cage, and only weigh about 1kg each anyway

Also, I wrote down some contact details on a piece of paper. Unfortunately, that was in my diary today & got wet (perils of an outdoor job:(), so I need to know the following please:
Contact details for Hyundai spare parts
HMCA, who was the contact for the gearshifter?

Many thanks

Crazy Dave

19-02-2008, 05:14 AM

Some of that depends on how you want to register the car. Sun visors have to be in place for road registration requirements, but without looking through the CAMS manual to make sure it is not one of the things we just always overlook, don't believe it to be a requirement for rally cars. Check the PRC rules in section 6 of the CAMS manual. A pillar trims the same and yes the trim below the rear window should remain in place by the book. Next time I have my windows out in the rear I am going to try to fit them but until then or I get some noob pick on them and log them at scrutineering then they can't go back in without being savaged. Or you can use another material and as it is not about the weight as they are insignificant, I will probably stick something else there in the long run. But low on the priority list at the moment.

wagonist

12-03-2008, 12:56 AM

A little more progress has been made on my car.

I now have a working factory Tacho. It seems that the only wire missing in my 98 twinkie was the wire in the dashboard.

Also, as a bit of an aside while I'm waiting for other things to happen, I've taken to stripping the factory wiring loom of all the wires that are extra to workings on the rally car. Things like rear wiper/dimister/rear fog light, door open switches, heater & radio, and anything to do with the automatic version.
I'm really quite surprised at how much thinner the loom gets. It's probably not going to make the car much lighter though (I haven't got round to weighing it yet, but I'm guessing a couple of kilos) so it's probably not worth the effort if you don't have the spare time/want/need.

HMCA

12-03-2008, 01:54 PM

Also, as a bit of an aside while I'm waiting for other things to happen, I've taken to stripping the factory wiring loom of all the wires that are extra to workings on the rally car. Things like rear wiper/dimister/rear fog light, door open switches, heater & radio, and anything to do with the automatic version.
I'm really quite surprised at how much thinner the loom gets. It's probably not going to make the car much lighter though (I haven't got round to weighing it yet, but I'm guessing a couple of kilos) so it's probably not worth the effort if you don't have the spare time/want/need.

Don't forget to replace all the green wires while your at it!!!

wagonist

12-03-2008, 07:49 PM

Don't forget to replace all the green wires while your at it!!! :confused:

HMCA

13-03-2008, 07:22 AM

Don't forget to replace all the green wires while your at it!!!

Trees are Green:)

Don't look at the light

wagonist

09-04-2008, 06:34 PM

Some progress has been made... mainly due to the battering of my credit card:(

DMS suspension & bond bolt in roll cage are in progress.:naughty:
A new radiator support is sitting at home waiting for me to cut off the current bent one. I don't know why I tried to salvage the one off the silver car, for the $95, it's not worth the hassle. Thanks Mick.:hail:

wagonist

01-06-2008, 02:18 PM

More progress. I now own a trailer to tow the car around on:clap:

Been searching the forum: where (who) do the fibreglass light pods come from that HMCA, Whitey(?), etc are using?

fro

01-06-2008, 03:36 PM

Ces Evans... PM Automotive Gadgets on here ("Bean" Edwards), and he can do you the whole package, including the pod and the light rings and blah, blah, blah... he's the man.

wagonist

01-06-2008, 04:04 PM

Cool, thanks.
I'll have a chat to him when I pick up my short shifter.

BTW, I was talking to your crew at ROC. what happened to your alternator?:confused:

fro

01-06-2008, 04:48 PM

Ummm, stuff? The original alternator filled up with mud at the Oran Park day, and died. The replacement alternator did Lithgow, and we put a brand new one on for RoC (Thanks HMCA!).

The early single cam has a bolt and spacer where the alternator top mount bolts to the block. That bolt snapped, meaning that the alternator couldn't hold tension on the alternator belt. Thanks to the service crew and Lucky, the alternator got cable-tied in place with tension on the alternator belt for the rest of the day, using the radiator support panel.

By the next regroup, what was left of the broken bolt had vibrated itself out of the hole, and at the service at the end of the day, we replaced the broken bolt, and life was great.

Next morning, we launched over a crest that perhaps should have been noted something other than "Flat Crest", and punched the sumpguard into the radiator support panel, munting the sumpguard, all its mounts, the radiator support panel, the front engine mount, the engine crossmember, the crossmember mounts at the back, the bumper skin and the bonnet alignment.

Still finished the day though, and didn't slow us down.

wagonist

12-08-2008, 09:45 PM

Got a question about instrumentation.
From what I understand, there are no limitations on this.
ie I can put whatever gauges I want where I want.

Am I correct in this?

Crazy Dave

13-08-2008, 01:20 PM

Got a question about instrumentation.
From what I understand, there are no limitations on this.
ie I can put whatever gauges I want where I want.

Am I correct in this?

Basically. It still has to be safely mounted and not intruding on something else that makes it dangerous.

wagonist

17-09-2008, 07:45 AM

The plan is to pick up the rolling shell from the panel beaters tonight:), thne work can start again on getting this little jogger finished.

I'm glad I gave up my plans to compete this like I was planning, I reckon it's looking more like next year now, especially as I have a new toy daily:clap:

wagonist

26-09-2008, 12:38 PM

My car is back & being worked on again.:clap:

Having some trouble removing the rear drums as I need to disconnect the handbrake cable, so it can go down to the suspension shop to get replacement bushes done up.:slap:

wagonist

07-11-2008, 10:04 PM

Figured out that the wheel nuts need to be removed to take the drum off:spank:
All apart now & ready to be upgraded.

Also removed the insulation off the inside of the firewall using the heat & scrape method. Resulting in me burning my hand:crazy:
I think the dry ice might be the go for the rest...

wagonist

11-11-2008, 11:24 AM

ernysp76

11-11-2008, 12:26 PM

Dropped the car off at Bond Yesterday arvo to get the strut towers welded up.
pick it up next week so I can finish removing the insulation.
then paint it & put the dash back in for the roll cage to happen:clap:

Most of us leave the dash out until after the roll cage is fitted.

((Can anyone get down there and give this guy a bit of a hand? I know we are all busy but we don't need burnt hands and stuck brake drums due to not taking wheels off first. I see serious burns when he starts handling dry ice. ))

wagonist

11-11-2008, 12:34 PM

ooo, nasty:rofl:

I've got a bolt in cage going in, which means it goes outside the dash, so it needs to go in first.

& for the drum thing, I had the wheels off, but I'd put the wheel nuts back on so I didn't lose them. The only other car I've owned that had rear drums had the wheel studs pressed into the drum, not a separate hub, so I didn't think this would be any different:splat:

Whitey

11-11-2008, 12:49 PM

Don't take any notice of Erny, he's just a rude bastard.:spank:

ernysp76

11-11-2008, 01:05 PM

Don't take any notice of Erny, he's just a rude bastard.:spank:

You know that's not true, its only friends that tell you as it is the rest just sit on the side and wait for you to fail. Comment was not meant to be nasty, in Vic we work together on our cars to get the Newbies going (experience shared). Whether it be parts or advice it doesn't matter as it all helps. We don't want people wasting money unnecissisarily and we don't want to do things twice and then hear from someone else I could have told you that wouldn't work.... later thinking well thats great you COULD have told me but you didn't.:grouphug:

wagonist

11-11-2008, 02:40 PM

I think someone has not noticed the sarcasm...

Your comments are appreciated, Erny.:grouphug:

HMCA

11-11-2008, 02:42 PM

NSW is pretty much the same I believe, I even share my service slut:attack: with the Fazz

Hi Wayne:wave:

Just don't tell Whitey:rofl::naughty:

wagonist

13-11-2008, 09:30 AM

Not many have seen it, so here's a couple of pics of the progress:

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/4186/img7469yg5.th.jpg (http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img7469yg5.jpg)http://img234.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php) http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/1542/img7470xj8.th.jpg (http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img7470xj8.jpg)http://img91.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

wagonist

13-11-2008, 09:31 AM

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/3693/img7471gg9.th.jpg (http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img7471gg9.jpg)http://img504.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

wagonist

25-11-2008, 02:44 PM

Got a question about suspension bushes.

Basically, has anyone had the bushes replaced with something harder?
Or is it not worth the effort?

If it is, will the polyeurathane bushes uses to upgrade standard cars suspension be suitable?

Latho

25-11-2008, 03:07 PM

I wouldn't change to polyurethane. Less compliance on gravel generally leads to less grip, the only bush I'd change would be the caster offset one in the rear of the front lower control arm.

anthony tanzer

25-11-2008, 06:58 PM

polyeurethane will also require more servicing, as they'll need greasing regularly. Keep to the original rubber bushes and all you'll need to do is check for wear/ tearing.

wagonist

26-11-2008, 01:56 PM

I wouldn't change to polyurethane. Less compliance on gravel generally leads to less grip, the only bush I'd change would be the caster offset one in the rear of the front lower control arm.
Is that to stop movement of the front arms under acceleration/braking?

Apart from that, are others in agreeance with the theory of leaving the original rubber in?

Whitey

26-11-2008, 02:44 PM

I use Urethane bushes on the front control arms purely to stop the changes in geometry with the rubber flexing, I used rubber before the urethane and IMO it makes a difference to how precisely the car steers.

I haven't bothered with Urethane in the rear at all

wagonist

16-12-2008, 10:15 AM

Front lower ball joints: are these replacable, or are they part of the arm? ie you need to replace the whole arm to replace the lower ball joint?

Whitey

16-12-2008, 10:16 AM

Hi Wagonist,
they are replaceable, you need to remove the circlip and press them out.

wagonist

16-12-2008, 11:53 AM

ah ha, another tool to add to the shopping list then. Decent circlip pliers
thanks Whitey, i may finally get this car finished shortly.

Anyone know where you can buy a "cheapish" 11mm pipe spanner for the brake & clutch lines? Surely there's got to be something cheaper than $30:wtf:

And why the heck are they 11mm:confused: Every Japanese car I've owned has 10mm versions:splat:

HMCA

17-12-2008, 07:47 AM

And why the heck are they 11mm:confused: Every Japanese car I've owned has 10mm versions:splat:

Thats so when you round the nuts off a 10mm fits great:lmao:

wagonist

17-12-2008, 09:30 AM

Thats so when you round the nuts off a 10mm fits great:lmao:
That actually makes sense:clap:

wagonist

12-01-2009, 11:07 AM

Well, after many misadventures, the interior insulation is g o n e.

And for those who've been debating about the best method, after Ben and I spent only about 90 mins, the stuff was gone using the dry ice.

It took me something like 3 days to clean off the firewall using a heat gun, but I doubt the dry ice would've worked up there anyway.

I'm curious about the 2 plates in the front floor above the chassis rails. They were hidden under the insulation & only held down by it.
Are they important for anything, or can I get just get them spot welded down? Alternative is a couple of self tappers + some silastic.

wagonist

27-01-2009, 09:27 AM

Some major progress:clap:

Thanks for extra long weekends.:) Pity about the heat for some of it.:(

Mostly, thanks to the painter who I attempted to keep well lubricated and fed.

Now, it's time to get the heater and the dash reinstalled, get the engine bay back together, and get the roll cage fitted.:clap:

HMCA

27-01-2009, 10:12 AM

Steve

Thats the hard work done:clap:

Should only take 2 weeks to get it back together:potstir:

wagonist

28-01-2009, 12:48 PM

Now I'm trying to organise the spagetti junction that is the piping in the engine bay. they seem to need to go back in one particular order:spank:

A few trap for young players:
Series 1 fuel lines & brake lines don't fit a series 2.:splat: There is extra gusseting in the later models near the bottom of the firewall which these lines need to bend around.
And I already threw out the series 2 ones that were on the car:spank:

Also, wondering what people do to block up all the extra holes that exist in the firewall?
eg heater pipes, the intake vent for the dash fan, etc.

HMCA

28-01-2009, 12:54 PM

Also, wondering what people do to block up all the extra holes that exist in the firewall?
eg heater pipes, the intake vent for the dash fan, etc.

Aluminium street signs work really well for light weight blanking off panels, they are easy to cut to the correct size. Just be sure you get them from a legitimate sauce and leave the green ones!!!:lmao:

wagonist

28-01-2009, 01:33 PM

Aluminium street signs work really well for light weight blanking off panels, they are easy to cut to the correct size. Just be sure you get them from a legitimate sauce and leave the green ones!!!:lmao:
mmmm sauce.:slap: Now you've got me hungry.

Seeing as I work for a local council, my source for those kind of things is very legit. In fact, I could probably distribute them:crazy:

Green ones? Look at how much green is left on my car.:lmao: I'm making every effort to keep it as green as possible.

wagonist

28-01-2009, 01:57 PM

Crazy Dave

28-01-2009, 06:57 PM

You can get them so that you increase the castor which the excels can do with. A couple of different brands made them. I think GSL might sell them as well. Use search, they have been talked about a bit.

ae86trueno

29-01-2009, 06:14 AM

Suspension bushes & engine mounts:

My local suspension guru is having trouble sourcing the bushes to replace those on the front lower control arms.
Has anyone else has this drama?
He can get larger ones & cut them down no problem, but it would be better to have something that just fits.

Also, looking at replacing the front & rear engine mounts due to the rocking. Are there any dramas with doing this?

Repco can supply the nolathane bushes, including extra offset bushes to give you extra caster, we picked up some yesterday, but we bought some extra if your interested,

also dont worry too much about replacing the enginr mounts unless they the rubber is cracked and broken,
I will show you the way to stiffen them up,

Ben.

wagonist

29-01-2009, 07:50 AM

Hey Ben.
Yeah, I'll come round & grab a set if you don't mind. Is tonight good?
Let me know the part numbers, etc & I'll get replacements for your stash & prob a spare set for me.

I think of the 2 pairs of front/rear mounts I've got, only 1 of the mounts is actually any good. Both of the front ones are in 2 pieces.:crazy:

ae86trueno

30-01-2009, 05:42 PM

wagonist

02-02-2009, 11:43 AM

My supplier had already gotten those ones anyway. The custom ones he's doing are for the engine mounts.

I went to put the wiring back in over the weekend, but I've forgotten where the loom goes through the front (& I forgot to look carefully at the wrecks at Pick N Payless:spank:)

It seems the loom comes through the inner guard around the front but then in through the headlight "holes".
Does it then go above or below the radiator?

You can tell that the car started as a LHD.

wagonist

04-02-2009, 12:25 PM

Question:

I pulled the cambelt covers off my engine last night.
My engine is covered with surface rust & looks in poor condition externally. I have a feeling the car may have lived near the ocean, because every nut is hard to undo.
I've got a couple of issues.
1. I need to change the engine mount over. I've rounded off one of the nuts that hold the 2 parts of the mount together:(
2. the lower cover was broken anyway. HMCA, can you get me a price for one of these please? I don't like my chances of undoing a crank pulley nut at the wreckers.
3. looking at changing the water pump, too (what are these worth?)

But to get the mount & the water pump out, I have to remove the cambelt tensioner.
Is the spring on the retaining bolt under constant tension, even when loose? Or does it simply slide on & off? I don't want it to suddenly go bouncing around the garage or to have to retension it before fitment.

Thanks

Whitey

05-02-2009, 10:56 AM

Does it then go above or below the radiator?

Below i believe

JonoS

12-02-2009, 08:54 PM

Below i believe

Is this the loom you're talking about?

http://kelvinsx3.bravehost.com/underbody/sumpguard%20front.jpg

wagonist

12-02-2009, 09:22 PM

Yeah, that's it.
O need to get down to the wreckers & just have a sticky at where it's clipped on & routed. Just been out of the car for too long.

wagonist

15-02-2009, 07:38 PM

HAAAALLLPPPP!!!

I've done something stupid & managed to strip the thread on the "spring" bolt on the Cambelt tensioner:spank::splat::slap:

Firstly, can it be helicoiled?
Secondly, how does that cover come off? I've undone all the bolts, but I'm guessing:confused: that the sealant is holding it on.
Is the oil pump behind here?

Whitey

15-02-2009, 08:03 PM

Bugger....
The oil pump is part of that cover, you will need to drop the sump to take it off as the oil pickup is bolted to the bottom of it.

The good news is that you should be able to helicoil it.

wagonist

15-02-2009, 09:28 PM

Are the oil pumps pretty resiliant?
I'd rather not pull that part of this engine apart if I can avoid it.

The water pump is ok, but there's a fair bit of rust buildup behind it though:(

wagonist

16-02-2009, 10:17 AM

Whilst I've got the engine & box out, I may as well do the clutch.

What recommendations are there for the type of clutch?:grouphug:
I've always previously relied on full face organic sprung types, but then I've mostly been driving AWD cars on tarmac, where you need a slip point that's not the tyre gripping the road. So racing a FWD on dirt is a bit of a mystery to me.:confused:
I imagine that slippage is something that's not wanted to occur, but also having an overly heavy clutch is also something that's to be avoided.

Dirkvhp

16-02-2009, 10:33 AM

I understand that many people run with the standard excel clutches and have no issues ... I picked up a new clutch kit (the car I'm helping build at the moment had a busted clutch) including release bearing and pressure plate for a song through the Hyundai Parts program, give Mick a call (I believe Mick runs a standard clutch as well...but don't quote me!)...

Crazy Dave

16-02-2009, 05:53 PM

I had a puk clutch in the car when I bought it. During an engine swap I found it worn and fitted a standard (original clutch) out of a 90,000km engine that was sitting there that looked pretty good and it is still there. I will get race brakes to put new faces on the puk when I get around to dropping it up there. The puk clutch was fun and felt good to use but with the lack of horsepower offers no real advantage. But one day I will put it back as it makes it feel more like a potent machine as it becomes a dog to get of the mark on a dry tar road during transport. Stick with a standard type of clutch or heavy duty alternative, probably the pick of all options as you will get some slip with a bit more bite. Contact Race Brakes for options and mention you are in the excel series and they will look after you. You can ring and get a price to evaluate your options.

Just doesn't feel as much of a rally car without a puk though, Can't wait till I get it back in again now that I have remembered what I am missing.

wagonist

25-02-2009, 10:18 PM

Picked up a 104 000k 99 twin cam today from the auctions.
Anyone want some fully sick 17" wheels with silver painted trim?:lmao:

Anyway, the gearbox casing is broken around the top mount.
Anyone know someone who's got a box with broken internals so I can do a case swap (plus it'll help me learn how it works)?
Are the single cam boxes the same casing (I'd be surprised if they're not)?

I also need to change over the oil pump casing (snapped off the oil filter & alternator bracket)

Damo666

26-02-2009, 06:45 AM

The early single cam boxes dont have the engine mount holes on the case (as they use the engine mount off the block only).

wagonist

26-02-2009, 08:43 AM

The early single cam boxes dont have the engine mount holes on the case (as they use the engine mount off the block only).
That's on the bell housing part though, mine's broken at the mount onto the chassis rail, which is the other end of the box.

Damo666

26-02-2009, 12:17 PM

Sorry, misread that. So our going to split the box and just use the chassis rail end from the SOHC box?

wagonist

26-02-2009, 02:06 PM

If i have to.
I'd like to re-use as much off this box as possible as it only has 104 000kms.

wagonist

03-03-2009, 01:13 PM

Whitey

03-03-2009, 01:23 PM

I may end up getting the piece rewelded back on. It's not as damaged as I first thought.

Also, to replace the oil pump cover thingy (filter mount plus alternator bracket have broken off), how is it sealed onto the block?
Ditto with the sump?

The oil pump cover thingy has a paper gasket to attach it to the block, as does the oil pickup. The sump is sealed with silicon gasket goo. You'll be seaching for a long time to buy a sump gasket for an excel !!!

wagonist

03-03-2009, 04:37 PM

Thought I'd ask. You'd never know in this modern age whether some manufacturer might still have done it the old-fashioned easy way.

Looks like the sump & cam cover have been off this engine before (the replacement goo is evident).
Any ideas why this may be so on a 100 000km engine?
Part of 100 000km service?:crazy:

wagonist

19-03-2009, 10:42 AM

I split my damaged engine & box apart last night.

Aside from finding out the sump has been damaged, I discovered that one of the bolt holding the engine & gearbox together is missing.
It's the one off the back near the driveshafts. Is this supposed to be a bolt, or a stud & nut?
Part of the casing has broken off around it as well:(

If it is a stud, how is it held in? ie is the gearbox casing tapped for a thread, or is it "glued" in?

Crazy Dave

19-03-2009, 05:24 PM

My one only has a bolt in it.

wagonist

19-03-2009, 07:09 PM

My one only has a bolt in it.

so is my best bet then to get the hole filled with weld and then re-drill and tap it, or to try to get a helicoil in there.
it' only broken off the bit around the spacer.

wagonist

25-03-2009, 10:00 AM

Discovered yesterday when I dropped the broken box off to get welded, that the rear lower gearbox-engine bolt had fallen out prior to the accident, which left the thread intact:clap:
It just broke off a part next to the dowel, and damaged the dowel too.

I'm wondering about the upper gearbox mount though. How many have the front "extra" part of this mount bolted on (ie next to where the clutch line bolts up)?
This part had also broken out in the accident due to the mount bending slightly (obviously bin fodder now), but I was able to bend this bit back by hand:wtf:
Doesn't seem real strong to me, & therefore I'm questioning it's effectiveness in doing anything.

Though I must admit, I'm not a great fan of these mounts that bolt downwards into the gearbox casing, which leaves the thread only holding it up (though I've yet to see one fail because of this either)

wagonist

27-03-2009, 08:20 AM

Fitted up the rear DMS suspension last night & rear braided brake lines:clap:
It's tight to the rear sway bar!!! I've seen that others have had clearance issues with this. Under what circumstances does this happen?

Also, I'm curious about other short people's opinion on the handbrake. I know that I'm going to have issues with it's position. Driving around this week in an Accent in hilly terrain has been a @#%^. It's too far back & too low. I thought Korea was full of short people & mountains:crazy:

ae86trueno

27-03-2009, 10:53 AM

2 things

1 get rid of the front and rear roll bars

and 2 handbrakes are for wimps, :)

wagonist

27-03-2009, 11:22 AM

Got to figure out my driving style, so they can stay (I can always disconnect them).

And you remember the slope of my yard?:crazy: No handbrake is not an option.

Bargy

28-03-2009, 08:06 PM

Also, I'm curious about other short people's opinion on the handbrake.

I find it almost impossible to get to my handbrake. I am planning to move the gear lever further forward and up on a platform so that it is nearer to the steering wheel. (The selecter cables may end up passing through the hole where the ash tray goes.) Moving the gear lever will also make room for the handbrake to be moved forward about 5" to where I can reach it. Some say that they don't use the handbrake within stage but it would sure help me (lacking any real skill) to get around hairpins.

(RG)

wagonist

28-03-2009, 11:58 PM

I'm not aiming to go to that extreme, just needs to be higher & a closer to the gearstick.
I'm thinking of a box section bolted down on the original mounting points & then bolting the handbrake to that.
Extending the cables are another issue.

HMCA

29-03-2009, 07:09 AM

I find it almost impossible to get to my handbrake. I am planning to move the gear lever further forward and up on a platform so that it is nearer to the steering wheel. (The selecter cables may end up passing through the hole where the ash tray goes.) Moving the gear lever will also make room for the handbrake to be moved forward about 5" to where I can reach it. Some say that they don't use the handbrake within stage but it would sure help me (lacking any real skill) to get around hairpins.

(RG)

Rick

until saturday I would of suggested the "works" modified gear mechanism which until Saurday had lasted for 4 years without a failure to do what you are wanting (higher and forward). I still think is a viable option and we will be making some mod's to make it a bit stronger. It also results in a shorter throw. We also replace all the bushes at the start of the year. I have the broken mech out in the garage so I'll take some pics today and post them.

With the handbrake mod's are you replacing the cables for hydro?

Cheers mick

Damo666

29-03-2009, 05:35 PM

Bargy, I think you've seen my shifter - its on a raised platform around 4" higher than the stock position (as wagonist has suggested, still using the unmodified shifter).

In my opinion it feels 100% better being that much closer to the steering wheel, and is heaps cheaper than a proper short-shifter!

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff126/damop/CameraDownload1021.jpg

wagonist

30-03-2009, 12:01 PM

I was talking about the handbrake lever, not the shifter.
I've yet to get a seat in, so until then, the short shifter is a start. I've been half thinking about installing it into the Accent I'm driving at the mo:lmao:

Wasn't aiming at hydraulic, more just modifying the mechanism for fly on/off & bringing it forward. Might do some mucking around with the cable attachment to extend it.

HMCA

30-03-2009, 12:50 PM

Here is the H mans version

wagonist

30-03-2009, 01:18 PM

Someone forcing the shifts...:spank:
In the heat of battle.

Or are you used to the long up-down shift on the standard ones that this threw you:potstir:

Kenoath

01-04-2009, 01:39 AM

Bargy, I think you've seen my shifter

So if you put a H pattern on the top of that would it be road legal?

Bargy

01-04-2009, 06:19 PM

Rick

With the handbrake mod's are you replacing the cables for hydro?

Cheers mick

Hi Mick,

At this stage, I am just planning to get an extension to the adjuster bolt to connect the relocated brake handle to the original cable arrangement. If I was more proficient at LFB (or is that Left Foot Steering), this should become a bit of a moot point.

Rick

wagonist

01-04-2009, 11:27 PM

The extension to the original cables was what's got me stumped at the moment, too.
Either make up a new rod from the lever to balancer, or lengthen it somehow.

wagonist

05-05-2009, 02:02 PM

Finally got some more work done today:eek:

Discovered that the bracket for the front brakelines fouls with the DMS suspension, so had to remove the brackets.

I was trying to find the circlip that holds the lower ball joints onto the LCAs. Is this on the top or bottom:confused:

And now that I have a towcar again (what a drama:headbang:), I might finally able to get it to where the engine & box are, plus the rollcage.:clap:

wagonist

11-05-2009, 11:44 PM

Not quite mobile on it's own yet, but an engine & box are back within the confines of the engine bay:clap:

I've got a question for those running DMS suspension.
For the front to have camber adjustment, are the upper hubs to strut bolts required to be replaced by something else? Because with the standard bolts back in, I can only see 2 positions for the eccentric washers to fit where the bolt will still fit through:confused:

Bargy

12-05-2009, 12:16 PM

I've got a question for those running DMS suspension.
For the front to have camber adjustment, are the upper hubs to strut bolts required to be replaced by something else? Because with the standard bolts back in, I can only see 2 positions for the eccentric washers to fit where the bolt will still fit through:confused:

I believe that the DMS bolts are longer than standard bolts (or maybe that is just what Greg fitted to the car).

As far as I can figure, the washers are positioned with the hole either to the back (away from you as you look at the strut, towards midline of car) or the front (nearer to you as you look at the strut, towards side of car) of the slot. Given that there are 2 bolts per strut, this gives you 4 combinations for each strut; back-back, back-front, front-back and front-front. I haven't actually done the maths to work out the order from minimum to maximum (negative?) camber.

wagonist

12-05-2009, 03:53 PM

My front struts only have washers on the upper holes, the lower ones are fixed.
And from looking at mine, I can only see 2 positions.

if there's only these couple of positions, it seems kind of pointless to have the camber adjustment, because then you can't actually set it to a specific angle:confused:

I'll contact DMS for their input.
The car seemed really hard to turn & wanted to straighten up very quickly, but that may also have been due to the 18psi in the tyres:(

wagonist

28-06-2009, 01:26 PM

Has someone got some oil capacity & type specs? Should I be using better oil considering the use the engine is going to get?

Ditto with the coolant & gearbox oil?

I want to get my engine running again, but I've got no idea of how much fluids I'm supposed to be putting back in.

HMCA

28-06-2009, 08:55 PM

Steve

Not certain on oil volume-will check tomorrow, Engine oil we are using Mobil 1 ATM but will probably be changing to Shell now that HMCA have a tie up with Shell.

Gearbox we use Alien blood-Redline

And Approved Hyundai Cool-ant's

Crazy Dave

28-06-2009, 09:35 PM

I find synthetic oil to be a good bit of re-assurance for both the engine and gearbox. I personally run Nulon oil as it is the best value for me as my local autobarn gives me good deal on it. Find out what a local supplier can look after you best with as a bit of a sponsorship deal.

wagonist

16-07-2009, 09:33 AM

I should ask that at my local Auto one, I'm in there enough lately.

Anyway, having a big problem with getting this thing to start.
I seem to have power at the fuel pump (though it doesn't seem to be working), but I'm getting no fuel to the engine.

Is there an issue with needing to "prime" the fuel system? Everything has been removed & replaced at some point during the build.

I'm starting to think there is a problem with either the ECU or the wiring loom.
Anyone know someone who has working ones of these spare that I could borrow for testing (& then possibly buy if they work)?

wagonist

17-05-2011, 11:41 PM

Prob should do an update now that the car works & have actually done a competition event in it (albeit a motorkhana).

Ended up buying a running high k 98 twinkie off Ebay in Brissie (non flooded...).

Transferred over the wiring harness & the fuel pump & waalaa, it started...:wtf:
Still have no idea what the problem was though.

Anyways, got a wheel alignment done, brackets for the brake lines, & got it painted, then an exhaust (which subsequently needed more work due to be bloody loud & sounding like a "wet fart").
Next is the cage, then seats, steering wheel, followed by relocation of the battery & fitting of the other rally stuff like extinguisher, nav comp & spotlights.
Might be done very shortly.:clap:

Yoube vid of motorkhana: look at 6:09 (http://youtu.be/-AOZAyHE9xY)

shake

19-06-2011, 09:54 AM

I encounted a problem like this yesterday with my brother in laws excel. He was driving, check engine light illuminated, car started coughing intermittently, 20 minutes later stalled and wouldn't restart. We undid the top bolt on the fuel filter and cranked it, no fuel came out. We removed the fuel pump put it across the battery, makes noise like an electric motor, seems ok. Checked for codes out of the ecu, nothing, it wouldn't emmit the codes.CEL stayed illuminated, no flashing. Changed the ecu, fuel pump still not working. Swapped the fuel pump relay with the starter motor relay. Starter still cranks, but still no fuel pump. Checked the operation of the control relay, switch ignition on, power to the injectors is present, proves ecu is switch on. Checked fuel pump relay, at the pump connector Yellow wire to Blue wire. The 12V is present when the ignition is switched, but there appears to be no earth on the black wire (pin 3 of the fuel pump/fuel sender connector). So it looks like it could be a broken earth wire in the body loom.

wagonist

19-06-2011, 10:20 AM

Not that it really matters to me now, but I'd be interested to know how you get the problem fixed.

Had a few other things to sort out.

Dashboard brake fluid/handbrake light won't go out (looks like a short) & I've mis-wired the highbeam indicator light on the dash when I changed over to the tacho cluster.

Leaking sump plug & oil filter are 2 others.

On a brighter note, changed the front & rear engine mounts for solid ones I had made up.

shake

19-06-2011, 08:31 PM

Well the yellow wire isn't being switched with +12V, blue wire is fine, earth was also fine. I bypassed the fuel pump relay, made the fuel pump up to the injectors, still no vroom vroom. The ecu isn't not co-operating, maybe a sensor inhibiting the fireing and pump activation. Back to square 1, I'll let you know if I figuar it out. But I'm off to canberra for work for a while, so he's on his own with it for now.

Sorry for hijacking your thread.:slap:

...I had another look at it this afternoon (26/6/11). Turned out to be a broken wire to the crank angle sensor. I repaired the wire and broom, broom, all good.